1920s Rainbow Hermes Cameo Ring
A rare and unusual iridescent labradorite cameo forms the focal point of the striking statement ring. The subject is the Olympian trickster god Hermes, wonderfully detailed and complete with his trademark winged hat. As the stone catches the light, it burst with colour; rusty oranges and yellows, lime and acid green, and vivid morpho blues all shimmer and dance over the deep icy-blue body colour. The ring mount is simple, crafted in 9 carat gold with a minimalist collet setting that keeps the focus on the stone.
Hermes was a multifaceted character: the archetypal trickster, the divine messenger, the patron (and idealisation) of youths, he guided souls deep into the earth to the realm of Hades, he was clever, and (pushing both liberalism and anthropomorphism to their extremes) he was a thief - because the Greeks believed that even thieves should have their patron deity.
The story of the first day of his life (the fourth day of the month, a day that remained consecrated to him) is remarkable, to say the least. Son of Maia and Zeus, he was born in a cave on Mount Cyllene in Arcadia where he was wrapped in bandages, as was customary, and placed in a winnowing-basket. First, Hermes escaped. From the bandages, from the basket, from the cave. He made his way to Thessaly where his brother, Apollo, was looking after the herds of Admetus. Only Apollo wasn't looking after the herds... he was off cavorting with his lover, Hymenaeus... so the little thief Hermes stole some cattle. 113 beasts in total - cows, heifers, and a bull - and he drove them across Greece and hid them before returning to his mother in Arcadia.
As he approached, and before returning to his basket, Hermes noticed a tortoise ambling past the mouth of the cave. Intrigued, he swiped up the creature, gutted it, cleaned it, and strung a few lengths of cow gut (he had slaughtered two of the stolen beasts by way of an offering to the 12 Olympian gods) across the hollow of the shell - thus inventing the lyre.
Then Apollo arrived (this is all still day one) and furiously accused Hermes of being a wretched thief. Maia pointed to the child, wrapped in swaddling bandages, and asked how he could possibly make such accusations, so Apollo called his dad to come and sort it out once and for all. Zeus, being Zeus, took his time but eventually ordered Hermes to return the cattle... however by that point Apollo had noticed the lyre and was totally enchanted by the sounds it produced. Hermes offered to swap it for the animals (all 111 of them) and Apollo agreed.
A little later, Hermes invented the Pan pipes, which Apollo also decided he needed, offering this time the golden crook he used to shepherd the herds of Admetus. Hermes accepted, but also requested that Apollo teach him the art of soothsaying and the crook ultimately became the herald's wand, his famous caduceus.
Era: Art Deco, circa 1920
Ring size: Q or 8 US. Resize for £35
Head: 2.5cm by 2.1cm
Stone: Labradorite
Marks: Stamped 9ct
Condition: Great antique condition, a few chips/nibbles to the outer edge of the stone
Full appraisal document provided with each item
This includes a valuation for insurance purposes, item specifics, date, and origins (where applicable)
Gemstones are tested by an accredited gemmologist (Cert GA, Gemmological Association of Great Britain)
Shipping
Express shipping is free of charge and carbon offset
Tracked and insured with signature on delivery
UPS Express (International)
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Resizing
Ring sizing is available on most rings
£35 flat fee
Resizing takes 7-14 days
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Note: sizing may remove some of the patina (although we take every care to reduce this where possible)
Layaway
A 25% deposit will be taken to secure the item. The remaining balance will be settled in 90 days. You can pay installments weekly, monthly, or the full balance at the end - whatever works.
Condition
We offer detailed and accurate condition reports on each listing. These pieces are antique, vintage, or pre-loved, often over 100 years old so they're going to have lived a life. A healthy patina and the odd scuff/scrape are quite normal... it's part of their charm! Everything we present has been checked over by our jeweller and should be good for wear for many years to come (unless otherwise stated) but please remember to treat them with appropriate care and consideration for their age.
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An inscription can be added inside the band, where space allows. Add 2-3 weeks to shipping times
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