ENCYCLOPEDIA OF ANTIQUE JEWELLERY AND RELATED TOPICS

ANTINOUS

…the wistful face of Antinous, his gentle expression cast off to the side, seemingly enraptured in tender thought. Little is known about Antinous' life, the Bythinian (present day Turkey) boy of humble farming stock with an apparent overwhelming, rare beauty, but in 123 CE he was introduced to the Roman Emperor Hadrian whilst he was touring the region and quickly became his favourite lover. As Hadrian continued to tour his Empire, Antinous remained steadfast by his side as the two shared a deep spiritual and romantic bond. His story is a tragic one however, as in 130 CE whilst sailing the Nile Antinous fell into the river and drowned. Hadrian was beside himself with grief at the death of his companion. He quickly proclaimed Antinous to be a deity and announced that a city named Antinoöpolis should be built on the site of his death in commemoration of him. He also identified a star in the sky between the Eagle and the Zodiac to be Antinous, and came to associate the rosy lotus that grew on the banks of the Nile as being the flower of him.

Antinous' legacy as a gay icon has long endured since the days of Hadrian's empire, the symbol of overbearing and undeniable love even in the face of tragedy. In times when homosexuality was forbidden, cameos and intaglios such as this were often worn as a covert, but still public, way to express one's queer identity.

The way that Hadrian took the boy on his travels, kept close to him at moments of spiritual, moral or physical exaltation, and, after his death, surrounded himself with his images, shows an obsessive craving for his presence, a mystical-religious need for his companionship. - Excerpt from Royston Lambert's "Beloved and God: The Story of Hadrian and Antinous"

BEE (INSECT)

The Victorians were big on symbolism, particularly in their jewellery. It was a time of great upheaval; imperialism, the industrial revolution and huge advancements in scientific understanding and methodology radically changed Britain's perception of its past and future. With it came great social upheaval and a philosophy of purity, as the Victorians resolved to place themselves as the apotheosis of what it meant to be a moral and 'civilised' society. The bee was a popular motif during the era, representing hard work, cooperation, industriousness and loyalty. Pearls were also often associated with purity, chastity and grace. There are countless ways to analyse the symbology of this charming brooch, but it also holds merit on its own as a remarkable (and very cute) piece of jewellery.

CUT STEEL

Faceted steel studs, fashioned from the nails used to secure horseshoes, are riveted on to a metal frame, designed to glisten and gleam under candlelight. Cut steel had been used to adorn shoe buckles, scissors, and watch chains since the early 18th century with much of the early production taking place in Woodstock, Oxfordshire. With the popularity of shoe buckles waning towards the end of that century, the makers diversified into other decorative items including earrings, pendants, and brooches. The popularity exploded when Napoleon presented his second wife Marie Louise with a full cut steel parure (as he was unable to afford one made with gemstones).

HALCYON

According to Greek mythology, Alcyone (aka Halcyon(e) or Alkyóne) and her husband, King Ceyx of Trachis, incurred the wrath of Zeus for their romantic hubris. From Wikipedia:

"According to Pseudo-Apollodorus's account, this couple often sacrilegiously called each other "Zeus" and "Hera". This angered Zeus, so while Ceyx was at sea, he killed Ceyx with a thunderbolt. Soon after, Morpheus, the god of dreams, disguised as Ceyx, appeared to Alcyone to tell her of her husband's fate. In her grief she threw herself into the sea. Out of compassion, the gods changed them both into "halcyon birds" (common kingfishers), named after her. Apollodorus says that Ceyx was turned into a gannet, and not a kingfisher."

LION OF SAINT MARK

This is the Lion of Saint Mark; the heraldic symbol of Mark the Evangelist, the man traditionally ascribed as the author of the Gospel of Mark and the founder of the episcopal diocese of Alexandria.

The winged lion is an aspect of the tetramorph of the four evangelists as living creatures; Mathew (a man), Mark (a lion), Luke (an ox) and John (an eagle). The creatures of the tetramorph, just like the four gospels of the Evangelists, represent four facets of Christ. The representation of Mark as a lion is generally ascribed to his description of John the Baptist as "...The voice of the one who cries in the wilderness: Prepare Ye the way of the Lord, make straight his paths" which artists interpreted as a roaring lion. A second tie between Mark and the lion comes from Severus ibn al-Muqaffa, a 10th century Coptic Orthodox Bishop from Hermopolis (in Egypt), who recounted "Once a lion and lioness appeared to John Mark and his father Arostalis while they were traveling in Jordan. The father was very scared and begged his son to escape, while he awaited his fate. John Mark assured his father that Jesus Christ would save them and began to pray. The two beasts fell dead and as a result of this miracle, the father believed in Christ.”

MASONIC ORB / BALL / CROSS

These remarkable little oddities come in the form of a sphere with four hinged 'arms' at the top that hold it all together. When removed, the cleverly hinged ball opens out into a cross shape, with six pyramids pointing upwards. Each of the pyramids' faces is then carved with a different masonic symbol: the classic Square & Compass, a skull and crossbones, a closed envelope, brick wall, Star of David, eye of provenance, pentagram, a brick... and there are a whole bunch of others. This one's crafted in 9ct gold and silver.

From freemasonry.wiki/

"The Masonic Orb is believed to have originated in England during the 17th century. Although the exact origins remain unclear, it is believed to have been inspired by the armillary sphere, an astronomical tool used to model celestial coordinates. During the late 1800s and early 1900s, Masonic orbs and watch fobs with attached chains were fashionable accessories worn by Freemasons. These ornamental pieces not only displayed Masonic pride but also allowed Freemasons to discreetly identify one another.

The Masonic Orb's spherical shape is often interpreted as a representation of the universe. Inside the Orb, the cross symbolises the four cardinal points, emphasising the Masonic belief in the universality of their principles. The opening of the Orb symbolises the transformative journey of the individual Freemason, as they gain spiritual and moral knowledge. Each of the symbols on the cross represent the core values of Freemasonry; such as truth, integrity, morality, and charity. While engravings on the pyramid facings may vary there are some typical symbols found across of the orbs. 

1. Square and Compass: The most recognizable symbol of Freemasonry, representing virtue and morality.2. Seal of Solomon: Also known as the Star of David, it symbolizes wisdom and divine guidance.3. Skull and Crossbones: A symbol of mortality and the transient nature of life, reminding Masons of the importance of living with purpose.4. Spring Acacia: A symbol of immortality and resurrection, representing the Masonic belief in the afterlife.5. Pillars of Boaz and Jachin: Two pillars representing strength and establishment, based on the biblical account of King Solomon’s Temple.6. All-Seeing Eye: A symbol of divine providence and the watchful eye of God.7. Square: Represents morality and fairness.8. Level: Symbolizes equality and impartiality.9. Plumb: Represents uprightness and rectitude."

MOON, CRESCENT

The crescent is a potent, ancient symbol usually used to represent the moon but not necessarily a particular lunar phase. When it is (used to denote a lunar phase), the waxing first quarter is referred to as "crescent" or "increscent", and the waning final quarter as "decrescent". The word, crescent, comes from the Latin crescere meaning "to grow". In alchemy, the crescent represents silver, the precious metal, on account of the moon's silvery glow, and the astrological use of the crescent can be traced back to early classical Greek horoscopes. Through Ishtar and Artemis-Diana, there is a strong and ancient link to the divine feminine (mirrored by the sun representing the male principle) and the crescent is often placed with the two points upwards on the crown of the head - like 'horns'. Viewed from the northern hemisphere, the waxing crescent points to the left, and the waning crescent to the right.

SAINT CHRISTOPHER

St Christopher is one of the most popular saints; in England, there are more wall paintings of St. Christopher than of any saint other than the Virgin Mary. He has served as the patron saint of travellers, both in a literal and metaphorical sense, for centuries, guiding and protecting those journeying across land, sea and through life.

There are conflicting accounts as to the origins of the saint, however they all centre around the same story; he was a giant man, over 7ft tall, and used his height to help travellers safely cross a dangerous river. One day a child asked to be carried to the other side, but as Christopher waded through the water, the child became heavier and heavier. It became almost too much to bare, but he eventually made it to the other side and when he sat the child down exclaimed ‘I felt like I had the weight of the world on my shoulders’. The child responded by saying he was the Son of God, and that Christopher had indeed carried mankind safely from one side of the river to the other. Most artwork depicts him as a large man with a staff, carrying a small child on his shoulder - as is the case with these pendants.

SWALLOW (BIRD)

Hirundo rustica; the barn swallow. The most widespread species in the Hirundinidae (swallow) family, found on every continent on earth, including Antarctica, and has in fact the largest natural distribution of any of the world's songbirds. Their broad dispersal is a consequence of human expansion, as the birds have nested in man made structures since time immemorial and their close proximity with humans has led them to become a mainstay symbol in theology, mythology, and folklore across cultures and time.

Its beautiful voice, graceful flight and seasonal migration mean it is often used to symbolise renewal and protection. In the Greek myth of Procne, the princess had her tongue cut out and was unable to speak, until she was transformed into a swallow and found her voice again, referenced in the 4th century latin poem 'The Vigil of Venus' where the return of the swallow marks the return of spring, and thus the return of love. For sailors, swallows have become a talisman of security and hope; after spending long periods at sea, the sight of a swallow meant land was near and therefore marked the end of a safe journey. Wearing swallow-themed jewellery, and having swallow tattoos, allowed sailors to carry this symbol of a successful voyage close to their hearts.

'TOI ET MOI' RING

Toi et Moi - you and me - is a popular style of engagement ring, symbolising two beings meeting as one. The style became famous in 1796, when Napoleon Bonaparte proposed to his beloved Josephine with one and has been a romantic choice ever since, with other notable figures such as Jackie Kennedy recipients of this enduring token of love.

TRILOGY RING

Trilogy rings are believed to have originated in ancient Egypt, where they were thought to represent the three phases of the sun (rising, high noon, and setting) or the three stages of life (birth, life, and death). The Greeks and Romans also used three-stone rings to symbolise the past, present, and future, but they have been popular as engagement rings since the Victorian era as a way to signify the past present and future of a relationship and the romantic style has endured as a favourite to this day.

VICTORIAN ECLECTISISM

Victorian eclecticism, a broad movement of the time marked by a revival of historical styles, both due to an exotic fascination with the history and culture of newly colonised lands and a reactionary shift against the bleakness of industrialisation and austerity. Many artistic movements stemmed from these ideas, including romanticism and gothic revival, drawing inspiration from an idealised vision of the seemingly freeing drama and emotionality of the medieval, renaissance and baroque eras; a rebuttal against the repressive and austere expectations and mores of the time.

SPUTNIK

Sputnik was the first artificial earth satellite placed in orbit by the Soviets on 4th October 1957. The satellite's 65° orbital inclination meant that it flew over more-or-less the entire planet, broadcasting a distinctive radio signal and throwing the USA into the 'Sputnik crisis', essentially triggering the Space Race that culminated in the Apollo programme and the first manned mission to the moon.

PASTE GEMSTONES

Paste is a particular type of flint glass that, through the addition of lead (and metal salts for colour), can be used to replicate virtually any gemstone.

The somewhat odd name, paste, comes from the way these gems are made: the leaded glass is crushed and ground down to a powder, mixed with the relevant colouring salts, then formed into a “wet” paste to ensure an even colour distribution through the stone. This paste is then placed into a mould and fired at high temperatures to create the final gem, which can be "faceted", domed like a cabochon or bead, or even an intaglio or cameo. 

But there's a little more to paste than simply imitating natural jewels: some paste stones have properties unlike anything else around - natural, or otherwise... read our blog for the full story.

OUROBOROS

The ouroboros (literally "tail devourer") is an ancient symbol depicting a serpent (or dragon) forming a circular shape and eating its own tail. It crops up in many cultures across many civilisations, and has meant different things to different Peoples:

Infinity and wholeness, the circular shape representing eternity, continuity, and the cyclical nature of life. The unity of opposites: creation and destruction, beginning and end, life and death.

Self-reflection and introspection, encouraging us to look inwards to reflect on our beliefs, our actions, and ultimately our selves.

Rebirth and renewal through transformation and growth.

Alchemy and spirituality, the ouroboros often being associated with alchemic practices. It can be seen to represent the union of opposing forces and the attainment of something "greater than its parts" - be that gold or some other valuable material, or a mode of higher consciousness or spiritual enlightenment.

My end is my beginning. All is one. The Ouroboros is depicted as a serpent biting its own tail. It begets, weds, impregnates, and slays itself. It can both support and maintain the world and injects death into life and life into death. In funerary art it represents immortality, eternity and wisdom. Apparently immobile, it is yet perpetual motion, forever recoiling upon itself. It contains the Alpha and the Omega. To the alchemists it is the unredeemed power of nature. To the Greeks: All is one. To the Egyptians: the path of the sun god. To the Buddhists: The wheel of samsara. It encircles the cosmic egg. It is the lifespan of the universe. It symbolises the undifferentiated; the Totality; primordial unity; self sufficiency.  It is the cycle of disintegration and reintegration, power that eternally consumes and renews itself; the eternal cycle cyclic time; spatial infinity; truth and cognition in one; the united primordial parents; the Androgyne; the primeval waters; darkness before creation; the restriction of the universe in the chaos of the waters before the coming of light; the potential before actualisation. My end is my beginning.

GARNET-TOPPED DOUBLET

Garnet topped doublets are a marvel of ingenuity... they're paste gemstones with a thin "slice" of garnet fused onto the crown, before the whole thing is then faceted. Having been made since the 1840s, they allow for the vibrant colours possible with paste gemstones to have a much more durable crown, with the bright vitreous lustre of garnet.

THE DEVIL

The Devil or demons feature in the religion and mythology of most cultures, from the ancient world to the modern day. Such figures are associated with darkness, the unknown, and at worst evil and death. They prey on our greatest fears, especially Satan, god’s rival, who is symbolic of Hell as opposed to Heaven. Just like the story of Prometheus and Zeus, the angel Lucifer was cast from Heaven for challenging God’s authority. He became Satan, the Devil, symbolic of pure evil, a master of deception, and the embodiment of temptation. Many of the popular images of Satan originate from Medieval times: the trident which, in ancient Greek and Hindu cultures represented a weapon against evil, instead became a symbol of the devil - a tool of evil. The Sigil of Baphomet, with three downward points signifying the rejected Christian Trinity, the two upward points are the horns of the goat face, which symbolises carnality. The horns are also an allusion to the Celtic god Cerunnos: by making horns symbolic of the devil, medieval christians also discredited the pagan god of nature, flora and fauna, and fertility.

Traditional satanists perform the “Black Mass” in which much of the Christian symbolism is reversed: the cross hangs upside down and blood not wine is consumed. There may be sexual overtones, or a sacrifice, to signify the dominance of the carnal nature. 

It all begs the question… whom, in the 19th century, would have commissioned and worn a stick pin like this… a member of one of Britain’s infamous Hellfire clubs, perhaps?

THE ARROW

The arrow. Lightning, rain, fecundity, virility, power, war. Released from a bow, the arrow represents the consequences of actions which cannot be recalled or revoked. Apollo's arrows are the sun's rays, both beneficent and fertilizing or scorching or harmful. The arrows of Eros are the piercing darts of love - a heart pierced by an arrow is union.

FLORA

“I have a fertile garden in the lands that are my wedding gift, filled with noble flowers by my husband [Zephyrus, the West Wind], who said, "Be ruler, O goddess, over flowers." As soon as the dewy frost is shaken from the leaves... the Hours come together clothed in many colours and gather my flowers in lightly woven baskets. Then come the Graces, twining flowers into garlands... I was the first the first to make a flower from the blood of the boy from Therapnae [Hyacinthus].... You to, Narcissus, keep your name in my well-tended garden... And need I tell of Crocus and Attis and Adonis, the son of Cinyaras, from whose wounds I caused the flowers to spring that honour them” - Ovid, Fasti 5. 209-230

Here Ovid uses figures from Greek mythology to give substance and context to the Italian fertility goddess, Flora, who otherwise has no myths. The Roman goddess of youth, fertility, spring, and flowering (particularly of grain and the vine) with leaves and blossoms in her hair.

In ancient Rome, the festival of Floralia was held between the 28th April and 3rd May, in honour of it's namesake goddess. The festival was a jovial and spirited (and often salacious) affair, full of theatre, competitions, comedy, hunting and lots of drinking. In contrast to many festivals of the time held by and designed to celebrate the patrician ruling class, it was rather democratic in nature and held mainly for the enjoyment of the 'plebeian' or working classes.

THE GAZELLE

A symbol of peace, speed, and grace, the Gazelle holds cultural and mythological significance in many regions around the world. While being traditionally hunted by the Arab people, the Gazelle has since been appreciated for its elegance and has become associated in Arabic literature with human female beauty. A traditional theme within Arabic romantic poetry centres around comparing the Gazelle with the beloved, and some linguists theorise that ghazal, the Arabic word for romantic poetry, is related to the word Gazelle. The Gazelle is also the totem of many African families, used to remind them to channel all energy into positive thinking and stop letting fear, doubt, and shame prevent them from moving forward.

The Gazelle's notable perceptiveness to its surroundings reflect qualities of adaptability, intuition and resourcefulness, while its sense of freedom and peace highlights the beauty of living in harmony with nature, and the importance of finding solace in simplicity.

THE SPRINGBOK

The Springbok Antelope can only be found in southern Africa and got its name from the Afrikaans words 'spring', meaning jump, and 'bok', meaning antelope. The apt name refers to the Springbok's unique 'pronking' behaviour, characterised by their ability to make their legs straight and rigid as they jump, propelling them high into the air. According to some, these jumps represent the soul taking flight from earthly possessions and finding happiness in who you are as an individual.

The Springbok has been the national symbol of South Africa since the twentieth century and has been adopted as a nickname by several South African sports teams, most famously the national rugby union team. To them, the Springbok represents national pride, resilience, and unity, as well as hope, opportunity and hard work.

CROSS PATTÉE

The cross pattée is an enigma, rich in meanings and interpretations, which crosses the boundaries of time and culture to stimulate human curiosity. Also known as the Cross of the Templars, it was adopted by the Crusaders in the Middle Ages, becoming a symbol of faith and devotion to Christianity. Since then, the symbol has been associated with honour and dignity, exemplified by the Victoria Cross, the most prestigious award for members of the British Armed Forces, taking the form of a bronze cross pattée.

The Cross of the Templars also represents a powerful symbol of protection for many cultures, acting as a spiritual shield against harmful outside influences. The cross was often worn as a talisman to repel negative energies and invoke benevolent forces, and is seen as a means of strengthening spiritual connection. Serving as a focal point during meditations and rituals, the cross pattée helps practitioners immerse themselves in a state of deep contemplation and inner connection.

DAPHNE

Daphne is the personification of the laurel. A nymph from the ancient Greek pantheon, her name still means 'laurel' in Greek today. She is sometimes said to be the daughter of the River Ladon, sometimes the Thessalian River Peneus. There are two versions of Daphne's myth; both involve creepy and unrequited love.

In the first, Apollo's lust was fired by Eros, whom he angered by deriding his archery practice. Apollo chased Daphne to the mountains where, just before he caught her, she begged her father to transform her so that she might escape. She became a laurel, the tree sacred to Apollo.

The second, Laconian version, made Daphne the daughter of Amyclas:

"She spent her time among the mountains and was a favourite of Artemis. Leucippus fell in love with her, disguised himself as a girl, and joined her companions. Daphne became fond of him, but Apollo became jealous and inspired Daphne and her companions with the wish to bathe. Leucippus hesitated to remove his clothing, but his companions forcibly undressed him. On discovering his identity they attacked him, but the gods made him invisible. Apollo tried to seize Daphne but she ran off, and in answer to her prayer, Zeus turned her into a laurel" - from 'Dictionary of Classical Mythology' by Pierre Grimal (1991)UQ

QUANDONG

The desert quandong (aka urti in parts of South Australia and bidjigal in parts of Victoria) is an evergreen tree in the sandalwood family, native to the arid deserts of central and southern Australia. Its bright red fruit ranges in colour from bright pink to dark pink and ruby red and is, by all accounts, delicious. It can be stewed, pickled, jammed, or juiced, and owing to its high vitamin C content, and ability to grow in arid, drought-prone conditions, has long been an important (and, by all accounts, delicious) bush food. The kernel inside the tough seed case can be ground into a paste and used to ease toothache and gum pain.

IVY

The ivy that clings to the wall, 

Symbols my heart's love for thee;

The ivy clings closely, so does my heart,

To the one adored by me.

Anon.

The sentimental Victorians LOVED ivy. To them it represented fidelity, high on the list of Victorian virtues, for when ivy chooses to embrace its companion - be that a tree, a wall, or a fencepost - nothing can separate the two, they become entwined to the last.

True friends, like ivy and the wall. Both stand together, and together fall.

Thomas Carlyle 

Ivy (per the Victorian Language of Flowers) represents fidelity, for nothing but death can separate ivy, once it has embraced the tree (or wall), from its chosen companion. As far as sentiments went, fidelity was a biggie for the Victorians, and ivy leaves appeared everywhere from jewellery to paintings to poetry, often accompanied by the words I Cling To Thee, or, Nothing Can Detach Me From You.

SPARTA

By the time Rome became the dominant force in the ancient Mediterranean, Sparta, the once-powerful Greek city state, had faded to irrelevance due to a combination of factors: its strong social conservatism that meant Sparta was unable to change, politically or culturally, in any significant way; perceived as barbaric, it became widely hated by the rest of Greece; mobilisation of pretty much the entire male population in times of war; repeated slave rebellions; etc. But the Romans loved Sparta, essentially turning it into a tourist destination; an ancient theme park commemorating Sparta's glory days centuries before. After all, the legendary, militaristic Spartan values - bravery, strength and discipline - resonated deeply with Rome's own. And is there an interesting parallel here between this Roman Sparta Land, and Rome itself today where tourists flock to the sites and monuments of an ancient civilisation?

POSY RINGS

Posy rings, or "love rings", are perhaps the most personal rings of all, being often associated with love and marriage. They contain a secret message from giver to receiver, hidden within, designed to be worn against the skin making the message even more poignant. Most popular throughout the 16th to late 18th centuries, they were exchanged as love tokens, betrothal or wedding rings, and are the inspiration for modern wedding bands. The term posy is late Middle English, with roots in old French and ultimately ancient Greek. It means, simply, poem or poetic verse. As noted above, with Nerissa's angry lament in The Merchant of Venice (Gratiano had, after all, parted with the ring she gave him after swearing he would keep it until his death), Shakespeare was familiar with the use of posy rings. He also mentions them in Hamlet when the king, addressed by the Prologue before a play enacted at court, asks: "Is this the prologue or the posy of a ring?"

FORGET-ME-NOT FLOWER

That blue and bright-eyed flow'ret of the brook,

Hope's gentle gem, the sweet forget-me-not.

-Coleridge

Charming antique memorial ring in 18ct gold and enamel. The head features a little forget-me-not flower, set with diamonds over a pool of royal blue guilloché enamel, and a small glass locket compartment to the back allowing for a keepsake (a lock of hair, or similar) to be worn against the skin. The split shoulders display further enamel work, turquoise, perfectly complementing the rich yellow gold. Made in England during the early years of queen Victoria's reign - circa 1840. 

The Victorians were big into symbolism and sentiment, and floral motifs regularly feature in jewellery and the decorative arts of the day. The Language of Flowers was a secret code that attached meaning to various flowers and plants. The forget-me-not, as presented here, bore a simple and uncomplicated message of love. When combined with a lock of hair, an absent lover, the flower would serve as love's reminder.

The forget-me-not takes its name from a tragic German folk tale set on the banks of the Danube. A young couple on the eve of their wedding day are taking a walk on the river bank when the bride spots a cluster of small blue flowers by the water. Her gallant fiancé reaches down to pick them for her but, losing his footing, he's swept away by the turbulent waters. With his last breath he managed to utter the words, "Vergiss mein nicht!" as the threw the flowers at the feet of his beloved. The anglicisation is generally attributed to Samuel Taylor Coleridge, who spent time in Germany and would almost certainly have become familiar with the tale.

ESSEX CRYSTAL

Essex Crystals are reverse carved translucent gemstones with painted, 3D subjects that are magnified by a domed cabochon front. But what does that all mean? Let's take a piece as an example... The subject is a horse and jockey over a gold background, and it's painted: brown horse standing on green grass, jockey in red and yellow livery. If you move it around, you notice that it's three dimensional - i.e. there's space between the grass and the horse, the horse and the reins, the rider and the background etc. The glyptographer (the person who carved it) has taken a cabochon of rock crystal and carved down into the flat base of the stone (known as reverse carving) to create the subject. It's then been painted and mounted, dome up, to create the final piece... an Essex Crystal.

SATURNALIA

Described by the Roman poet Catallus as 'the best of all days', the week-long festival of Saturnalia was celebrated to honour Saturn, the Roman god of time, wealth, agriculture, and liberation. Saturn was believed to have ruled over a simpler and more peaceful time in the distant past, known as the Golden Age, and Saturnalia was celebrated in this spirit. A particularly interesting part of the fun was the way in which societal norms and hierarchies were temporarily turned on their head, where slaves feasted like their masters and could speak freely without fear of punishment. Citizens and slaves alike revelled in this opportunity to run wild and used the time to speak, dress, drink and gamble without restraint.

DOVES

Doves have found their way into most corners of the Earth, except for the driest areas of the Sahara Desert, Antarctica and the high Arctic. These birds have an exceptional sense of direction and are able to navigate over long distances using the Earth's magnetic fields. Doves have also been used as symbols of peace and love for thousands of years: in ancient Greece, they were associated with Aphrodite, the goddess of love, and in Christian art, the birds are often depicted as carrying an olive branch, symbolic of peace.

MR & MRS GASKIN

Georgie and Arthur Gaskin were pivotal figures in the English Arts and Crafts movement, and good friends with William Morris for many years. Influenced by lectures delivered by Morris and Edward Burne-Jones, they founded the Birmingham Group which intended to integrate fine art and decorative art:

"The Gaskins took up metalworking as part of this plan and brought the venture all the dedication, and indifference to commercial considerations, that Morris could have wished." - Pre-Raphaelite to Arts and Crafts Jewellery, Gere & Munn (1996)

Arthur, a student then teacher at the Birmingham School of Art, first started making jewellery with his wife, Georgian Cave France, around 1899. From 1902 he was head of the Vittoria Street School for Silversmiths and Jewellers, a role he held for over two decades, influencing multiple generations of Birmingham jewellers. The husband and wife duo developed a unique style which they exhibited internationally, characterised by flowers and leaves in gold or silver and punctuated with small coloured stones and often finished with enamel. Again, Gere and Munn note that their works were, "absolutely in keeping with the taste of Morris and his circle".

Of their early work, Aymer Valance wrote: 

"Their home is in a locality where a large amount of very deplorable jewellery is produced; so deplorable that they determined, if possible, to provide an antidote to the prevailing degradation."

And Arthur Wainwright wrote:

"They did not, and possibly could not, then achieve the mechanical perfection of the trade jeweller. All their work was, of course, handwrought and based upon simple floral forms original to themselves."

FAIENCE

Faience is a type of ceramic material that's been produced in Egypt for many thousands of years, and was thought to hold magical properties of fertility, renewal, and rebirth. It's created from powdered quartz (silica, probably literally sand) mixed with various alkaline salts, small amounts of lime, and a metallic colourant (often sodium and calcium).

PAN

The Great God Pan; the Piper at the Gates of Dawn...

- Ancient Greek god of the wild

- Half-man, half-goat

- Son of Hermes and a daughter of Dryops; rejected by his mother for being half goat

- Adored by ALL of the Olympian gods (but particularly Dionysus)

- Considerable sexual energy

- Challenged Apollo to a musical duel (and lost)

- Known to create panic among humans

- Could be multiplied into a swarm of Pans

- The only Greek god who actually dies

Pan is the ancient Greek god of shepherds and hunters, of the meadows and forests and mountain wildernesses, of the rustic and the pastoral, and of all the wildness of nature. The son of Hermes and a daughter of Dryops*, this pastoral deity is half-human, half-goat, with curled horns and pointed ears. Pan remains immortalised to this day in our word panic - literally, 'pertaining to Pan', because was thought to make “mysterious sounds that caused contagious, groundless fear in herds and crowds, or in people in lonely spots"... fear that may, of course, lead to pandemonium. The Greek word pan means 'all' or 'every'; when Hermes presented his son to the other Olympians, the utter delight was shared by each and every one. They loved the little goat-hoofed creature.

Interest in Pan saw a resurgence among liberal scholars of the late 1700s, becoming "the symbol of the romantic imagination" according to Keats, and a representation of creation expressed through sexuality, as discussed in Richard Payne Knight's Discourse on the Worship of Priapus (1786):

"Pan is represented pouring water upon the organ of generation; that is, invigorating the active creative power by the prolific element."

*the sources don't agree on his parentage: Herodotus says Penelope was his mother and some state Pan to be a son of Zeus