the lost owl

ENCYCLOPEDIA OF ANTIQUE JEWELLERY

ANTINOUS

…the wistful face of Antinous, his gentle expression cast off to the side, seemingly enraptured in tender thought. Little is known about Antinous' life, the Bythinian (present day Turkey) boy of humble farming stock with an apparent overwhelming, rare beauty, but in 123 CE he was introduced to the Roman Emperor Hadrian whilst he was touring the region and quickly became his favourite lover. As Hadrian continued to tour his Empire, Antinous remained steadfast by his side as the two shared a deep spiritual and romantic bond. His story is a tragic one however, as in 130 CE whilst sailing the Nile Antinous fell into the river and drowned. Hadrian was beside himself with grief at the death of his companion. He quickly proclaimed Antinous to be a deity and announced that a city named Antinoöpolis should be built on the site of his death in commemoration of him. He also identified a star in the sky between the Eagle and the Zodiac to be Antinous, and came to associate the rosy lotus that grew on the banks of the Nile as being the flower of him.

Antinous' legacy as a gay icon has long endured since the days of Hadrian's empire, the symbol of overbearing and undeniable love even in the face of tragedy. In times when homosexuality was forbidden, cameos and intaglios such as this were often worn as a covert, but still public, way to express one's queer identity.

The way that Hadrian took the boy on his travels, kept close to him at moments of spiritual, moral or physical exaltation, and, after his death, surrounded himself with his images, shows an obsessive craving for his presence, a mystical-religious need for his companionship. - Excerpt from Royston Lambert's "Beloved and God: The Story of Hadrian and Antinous"

BEE (INSECT)

The Victorians were big on symbolism, particularly in their jewellery. It was a time of great upheaval; imperialism, the industrial revolution and huge advancements in scientific understanding and methodology radically changed Britain's perception of its past and future. With it came great social upheaval and a philosophy of purity, as the Victorians resolved to place themselves as the apotheosis of what it meant to be a moral and 'civilised' society. The bee was a popular motif during the era, representing hard work, cooperation, industriousness and loyalty. Pearls were also often associated with purity, chastity and grace. There are countless ways to analyse the symbology of this charming brooch, but it also holds merit on its own as a remarkable (and very cute) piece of jewellery.

CUT STEEL

Faceted steel studs, fashioned from the nails used to secure horseshoes, are riveted on to a metal frame, designed to glisten and gleam under candlelight. Cut steel had been used to adorn shoe buckles, scissors, and watch chains since the early 18th century with much of the early production taking place in Woodstock, Oxfordshire. With the popularity of shoe buckles waning towards the end of that century, the makers diversified into other decorative items including earrings, pendants, and brooches. The popularity exploded when Napoleon presented his second wife Marie Louise with a full cut steel parure (as he was unable to afford one made with gemstones).

HALCYON

According to Greek mythology, Alcyone (aka Halcyon(e) or Alkyóne) and her husband, King Ceyx of Trachis, incurred the wrath of Zeus for their romantic hubris. From Wikipedia:

"According to Pseudo-Apollodorus's account, this couple often sacrilegiously called each other "Zeus" and "Hera". This angered Zeus, so while Ceyx was at sea, he killed Ceyx with a thunderbolt. Soon after, Morpheus, the god of dreams, disguised as Ceyx, appeared to Alcyone to tell her of her husband's fate. In her grief she threw herself into the sea. Out of compassion, the gods changed them both into "halcyon birds" (common kingfishers), named after her. Apollodorus says that Ceyx was turned into a gannet, and not a kingfisher."

LION OF SAINT MARK

This is the Lion of Saint Mark; the heraldic symbol of Mark the Evangelist, the man traditionally ascribed as the author of the Gospel of Mark and the founder of the episcopal diocese of Alexandria.

The winged lion is an aspect of the tetramorph of the four evangelists as living creatures; Mathew (a man), Mark (a lion), Luke (an ox) and John (an eagle). The creatures of the tetramorph, just like the four gospels of the Evangelists, represent four facets of Christ. The representation of Mark as a lion is generally ascribed to his description of John the Baptist as "...The voice of the one who cries in the wilderness: Prepare Ye the way of the Lord, make straight his paths" which artists interpreted as a roaring lion. A second tie between Mark and the lion comes from Severus ibn al-Muqaffa, a 10th century Coptic Orthodox Bishop from Hermopolis (in Egypt), who recounted "Once a lion and lioness appeared to John Mark and his father Arostalis while they were traveling in Jordan. The father was very scared and begged his son to escape, while he awaited his fate. John Mark assured his father that Jesus Christ would save them and began to pray. The two beasts fell dead and as a result of this miracle, the father believed in Christ.”

MASONIC ORB / BALL / CROSS

These remarkable little oddities come in the form of a sphere with four hinged 'arms' at the top that hold it all together. When removed, the cleverly hinged ball opens out into a cross shape, with six pyramids pointing upwards. Each of the pyramids' faces is then carved with a different masonic symbol: the classic Square & Compass, a skull and crossbones, a closed envelope, brick wall, Star of David, eye of provenance, pentagram, a brick... and there are a whole bunch of others. This one's crafted in 9ct gold and silver.

From freemasonry.wiki/

"The Masonic Orb is believed to have originated in England during the 17th century. Although the exact origins remain unclear, it is believed to have been inspired by the armillary sphere, an astronomical tool used to model celestial coordinates. During the late 1800s and early 1900s, Masonic orbs and watch fobs with attached chains were fashionable accessories worn by Freemasons. These ornamental pieces not only displayed Masonic pride but also allowed Freemasons to discreetly identify one another.

The Masonic Orb's spherical shape is often interpreted as a representation of the universe. Inside the Orb, the cross symbolises the four cardinal points, emphasising the Masonic belief in the universality of their principles. The opening of the Orb symbolises the transformative journey of the individual Freemason, as they gain spiritual and moral knowledge. Each of the symbols on the cross represent the core values of Freemasonry; such as truth, integrity, morality, and charity. While engravings on the pyramid facings may vary there are some typical symbols found across of the orbs. 

1. Square and Compass: The most recognizable symbol of Freemasonry, representing virtue and morality.2. Seal of Solomon: Also known as the Star of David, it symbolizes wisdom and divine guidance.3. Skull and Crossbones: A symbol of mortality and the transient nature of life, reminding Masons of the importance of living with purpose.4. Spring Acacia: A symbol of immortality and resurrection, representing the Masonic belief in the afterlife.5. Pillars of Boaz and Jachin: Two pillars representing strength and establishment, based on the biblical account of King Solomon’s Temple.6. All-Seeing Eye: A symbol of divine providence and the watchful eye of God.7. Square: Represents morality and fairness.8. Level: Symbolizes equality and impartiality.9. Plumb: Represents uprightness and rectitude."

MOON, CRESCENT

The crescent is a potent, ancient symbol usually used to represent the moon but not necessarily a particular lunar phase. When it is (used to denote a lunar phase), the waxing first quarter is referred to as "crescent" or "increscent", and the waning final quarter as "decrescent". The word, crescent, comes from the Latin crescere meaning "to grow". In alchemy, the crescent represents silver, the precious metal, on account of the moon's silvery glow, and the astrological use of the crescent can be traced back to early classical Greek horoscopes. Through Ishtar and Artemis-Diana, there is a strong and ancient link to the divine feminine (mirrored by the sun representing the male principle) and the crescent is often placed with the two points upwards on the crown of the head - like 'horns'. Viewed from the northern hemisphere, the waxing crescent points to the left, and the waning crescent to the right.

SAINT CHRISTOPHER

St Christopher is one of the most popular saints; in England, there are more wall paintings of St. Christopher than of any saint other than the Virgin Mary. He has served as the patron saint of travellers, both in a literal and metaphorical sense, for centuries, guiding and protecting those journeying across land, sea and through life.

There are conflicting accounts as to the origins of the saint, however they all centre around the same story; he was a giant man, over 7ft tall, and used his height to help travellers safely cross a dangerous river. One day a child asked to be carried to the other side, but as Christopher waded through the water, the child became heavier and heavier. It became almost too much to bare, but he eventually made it to the other side and when he sat the child down exclaimed ‘I felt like I had the weight of the world on my shoulders’. The child responded by saying he was the Son of God, and that Christopher had indeed carried mankind safely from one side of the river to the other. Most artwork depicts him as a large man with a staff, carrying a small child on his shoulder - as is the case with these pendants.

SWALLOW (BIRD)

Hirundo rustica; the barn swallow. The most widespread species in the Hirundinidae (swallow) family, found on every continent on earth, including Antarctica, and has in fact the largest natural distribution of any of the world's songbirds. Their broad dispersal is a consequence of human expansion, as the birds have nested in man made structures since time immemorial and their close proximity with humans has led them to become a mainstay symbol in theology, mythology, and folklore across cultures and time.

Its beautiful voice, graceful flight and seasonal migration mean it is often used to symbolise renewal and protection. In the Greek myth of Procne, the princess had her tongue cut out and was unable to speak, until she was transformed into a swallow and found her voice again, referenced in the 4th century latin poem 'The Vigil of Venus' where the return of the swallow marks the return of spring, and thus the return of love. For sailors, swallows have become a talisman of security and hope; after spending long periods at sea, the sight of a swallow meant land was near and therefore marked the end of a safe journey. Wearing swallow-themed jewellery, and having swallow tattoos, allowed sailors to carry this symbol of a successful voyage close to their hearts.

'TOI ET MOI' RING

Toi et Moi - you and me - is a popular style of engagement ring, symbolising two beings meeting as one. The style became famous in 1796, when Napoleon Bonaparte proposed to his beloved Josephine with one and has been a romantic choice ever since, with other notable figures such as Jackie Kennedy recipients of this enduring token of love.

TRILOGY RING

Trilogy rings are believed to have originated in ancient Egypt, where they were thought to represent the three phases of the sun (rising, high noon, and setting) or the three stages of life (birth, life, and death). The Greeks and Romans also used three-stone rings to symbolise the past, present, and future, but they have been popular as engagement rings since the Victorian era as a way to signify the past present and future of a relationship and the romantic style has endured as a favourite to this day.

VICTORIAN ECLECTISISM

Victorian eclecticism, a broad movement of the time marked by a revival of historical styles, both due to an exotic fascination with the history and culture of newly colonised lands and a reactionary shift against the bleakness of industrialisation and austerity. Many artistic movements stemmed from these ideas, including romanticism and gothic revival, drawing inspiration from an idealised vision of the seemingly freeing drama and emotionality of the medieval, renaissance and baroque eras; a rebuttal against the repressive and austere expectations and mores of the time.

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