17th Century Diamond Ring
This may well be, objectively, the 'best' ring we've had the privilege of owning. I bought it based on a few iPhone pictures under the assumption that the diamonds were rose cuts, that they were set in silver, and that it dated from around 1780, however upon receiving it these assumptions proved... incorrect. Rings from the 1780s (and the decades around about) are, of course, very rare. But rings from the 1600s, like this one, are very, very rare indeed. Here's how we can discern between the earlier and later styles:
- The diamonds are set in gold* rather than silver. Silver became the standard way to set diamonds by around 1700** (coloured stones would still be set in gold). In the 1600s fashions changed in favour of brightly coloured clothing, pastel colours in satins and lace, which meant that the jewellery became more muted - yellow gold, diamonds, and pearls were thus favoured over the coloured gems and colourful enamelling employed during the Renaissance period.
- The diamonds are unusual cuts, simple cuts that were popular from the 1620s: the centre is triangular, a triangular table cut fashioned from a macle; and the flanking stones are unusual hybrids, kind of like rose cuts but with an exaggerated point, as if old single cuts were set 'upside down'. By the 1700s, diamond cutters began using more facets and experimenting with new cuts like the Peruzzi and Mazarin, cuts that were to become known as brilliant cuts (the precursors to the now-ubiquitous modern brilliant).
- The symbolism hidden in the goldwork follows a single, unified theme: love. The shoulders feature miniature versions of Cupid's 'Torch of Passion'; the back of the head is carved to resemble Venus's scallop shell; and the head itself is heart-shaped.
This ring is crafted in 18 carat gold. The goldwork is breath-taking with exceptional details, including: fine scrollwork where the shoulders meet the head; crimped/saw-tooth detail around the outer edges of the central collet; pointy proto-claws securing the central stone; tiny 'Torches of Passion' adorning the shoulders; scallop-shell fluting behind the head; rococo style openwork to the sides of the band; triple reeded band... basically anywhere you look you see something remarkable.
*See the two rings compared in Diana Scarisbrick's "Rings: Jewelry of Power, Love and Loyalty" (pictured). Note our ring has similar settings to the top ring, 106; the bottom ring dates from the end of the century and the diamonds set in silver. Also, Beatriz Chadour-Sampson, in her lectures on A History of Jewellery for the V&A Academy (2025), references this ring in the Rijksmuseum. She suggests that it should probably be dated earlier than 1700-1750.
**See this ring in the V&A
Era: Stuart, 1630 to 1680
Ring size: O 1/2 or 7.25 US. Resizeable for £55
Head: 8.4mm by 13.7mm
Stone: Triangular Table Cut Diamond and Rose / Old Single Cut hybrid Diamonds
Marks: None, tested as 18ct gold
Condition: Great antique condition. Appears all original. One flanking stone has a small chip at one end.
Full appraisal document provided with each item
This includes a valuation for insurance purposes, item specifics, date, and origins (where applicable)
Gemstones are tested by an accredited gemmologist (Cert GA, Gemmological Association of Great Britain)
Shipping
Express shipping is free of charge and carbon offset
Tracked and insured with signature on delivery
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Resizing
Ring sizing is available on most rings
£55 flat fee
Resizing takes 7-14 days
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Note: sizing may remove some of the patina (although we take every care to reduce this where possible)
Layaway
A 25% deposit will be taken to secure the item. The remaining balance will be settled in 90 days. You can pay installments weekly, monthly, or the full balance at the end - whatever works.
Condition
We offer detailed and accurate condition reports on each listing. These pieces are antique, vintage, or pre-loved, often over 100 years old so they're going to have lived a life. A healthy patina and the odd scuff/scrape are quite normal... it's part of their charm! Everything we present has been checked over by our jeweller and should be good for wear for many years to come (unless otherwise stated) but please remember to treat them with appropriate care and consideration for their age.
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alex@lostowl.jewelry
An inscription can be added inside the band, where space allows. Add 2-3 weeks to shipping times
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