1790s Georgian Cluster Ring
This ring is remarkable for a number of reasons: it was made during the late 18th century, and it's ultra-rare to find anything from this period in such exceptional condition; it's set with particularly bright old mine cut diamonds and vivid green emerald paste gemstones (but don't be put off by the pastes, they were the cutting edge technology of their day and would often command as much, if not more, than natural gemstone counterparts... just imagine wearing this ring to a ball, "oh my! What a glorious emerald ring... is it new?" to which you reply, "my dear, they are pastes! Can you even believe what the modern jewellers can do nowadays!"); and finally it is a masterclass in proportion, subtle ornamentation, and refinement - encapsulating the Georgian mode of reason-driven elegance. The details are considered - often minute - with delicate flourishes of gold and silver that appear imbued with motion and life... the metal appears to dance and glide around the stones, which are themselves set over foil to enhance their colour and brilliance. The band is fluted with tiny pierced crescents, two at each shoulder. And behind the head, hidden from public view but intimately placed against the wearer's skin, is inscribed (in the universal language of love): L'amitie. I think we can safely assume, all things considered, that the particular friendship in mind had a more-than-slight romantic lilt.
As the 18th century rumbled to a close, the old world order was teetering on the brink of collapse... already, we see the stirrings of the Industrial Revolution and, in a dramatic lurch away from imperialism and absolute monarchy, Revolutions in the now-flourishing United States and First French Republic had recently forged the modern-day political and social concepts based on Liberté, égalité, fraternité: liberty, democracy the rights of the individual (and their consent to be governed), and political equality.
In jewellery, architecture, the decorative arts, and even opera, Neoclassicism had superseded Rococo as the dominant style. Indeed, in a slightly macabre irony, an obsession with the Etruscans, Greeks, Romans et al. was one of the few points on which both the French Royals and the Revolutionary Government genuinely agreed. The transition to neoclassical was neatly illustrated by a series of porcelains gifted to Marie Antoinette by King Louis XVI, while the French Revolutionaries upheld the idea that imitation of antiquity would not only encourage refined taste amongst its citizens, but also help to maintain the nation's superiority on the global stage.
This ring was made in the 1790s but it was not made in France, nor the fledgling United States. It was made in England... a proud nation still reeling from the loss of it's most prized colony, and nervous onlookers to the brutal decapitation of the French monarchy. English styles remained distinct from their continental rivals, and continued on a trajectory of refined ornamentation - drawing from the 'rational' elements of neoclassicism (proportion, geometry, form) in an attempt to curb the excesses of the preceding Rococo and Baroque. Of course, it was all still political expression: the new 'rational' (protestant) Hanoverians vs the old 'Baroque' (catholic) Stuarts.
A remarkable treasure from a remarkable time.
Era: Georgian, circa 1790
Ring size: L or 5.75 US. Resizing not recommended
Head size: 11.2mm by 9.0mm
Stones: Old Mine Cut Diamonds & Green Paste Gemstones
Marks: None, tested as 18ct gold and silver
Condition: Great antique condition. Remarkably well preserved for its age. There is light wear to the paste gemstones consistent with age (one is cracked), and an exquisite patina to the gold. The foil behind the stones remains clear and bright with no evidence of water damage.
Full appraisal document provided with each item
This includes a valuation for insurance purposes, item specifics, date, and origins (where applicable)
Gemstones are tested by an accredited gemmologist (Cert GA, Gemmological Association of Great Britain)
Shipping
Express shipping is free of charge and carbon offset
Tracked and insured with signature on delivery
UPS Express (International)
RM Special Delivery (UK domestic)
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Resizing
Ring sizing is available on most rings
£35 flat fee
Resizing takes 7-14 days
Leave a note at checkout with your desired size
Note: sizing may remove some of the patina (although we take every care to reduce this where possible)
Layaway
A 25% deposit will be taken to secure the item. The remaining balance will be settled in 90 days. You can pay installments weekly, monthly, or the full balance at the end - whatever works.
Condition
We offer detailed and accurate condition reports on each listing. These pieces are antique, vintage, or pre-loved, often over 100 years old so they're going to have lived a life. A healthy patina and the odd scuff/scrape are quite normal... it's part of their charm! Everything we present has been checked over by our jeweller and should be good for wear for many years to come (unless otherwise stated) but please remember to treat them with appropriate care and consideration for their age.
More Questions?
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alex@lostowl.jewelry