19th Century "Daphne" Micromosaic Brooch
An important mid-19th century micromosaic brooch made in the Vatican studios in Rome. The central panel depicts Daphne, crowned with a laurel wreath and holding a laurel branch in one hand. A masterpiece of technical virtuosity, it's crafted in the naturalistic style popular during the first half of the 19th century, with special two-tone leaf-shaped tesserae, curved tesserae for the hair and her flowing clothes, and rare three-tone eyes. Further micromosaic panels feature colourful birds-of-paradise, or incorporate multicoloured - red, blue, white and green - millefiori tesserae with attractive geometric patterns. The brooch itself is worked in the Italian Archeological Revival style championed by the Castellani, built in bloomed 18 carat gold with the Papal Crown and Cross Keys, one of the hallmarks used by the Papal States (often incorrectly called "Vatican hallmarks") - the absence of a region mark indicates it was made in Rome prior to 1860. The micromosaic panels were made in the Vatican Mosaic Studio.
"Micromosaics were introduced in Rome in the 1770s. Tiny plaques, a few centimeters across, were made up of hundred of minute glass fragments, or tesserae, each cut from a rod or cane of glass, pulled out while the glass was hot... The earliest micromosaic workers were inspired by the mosaics of antiquity; they adapted classical subjects then set them as isolated motifs in a contrasting plain ground.
By the early nineteenth century, micromosaics depicted naturalistic landscape scenes either incorporating monuments of ancient Rome or copied from landscape paintings of the seventeenth century. Alongside these there was a thriving production of flower bouquets and animal subjects. The deisre for greater naturalism led to the production of some 20,000 tints, as well as multicoloured tesserae (also called millefiori tesserae) for greater effect, and specially shaped tesserae to indicate particular features, such as leaves or animal hair. Curved tesserae were even used to suggest individual hairs - a technique perfected by Antonio Aguatti. The tesserae were set close together, and the uneven tops were then polished to create a smooth surface, the gaps sometimes filled in with colored wax. It was a labor-intensive luxury art, patronised by the nobility and gentry. For visitors to Rome, stopping at a mosaic studio was as much a part of the tourist itinerary as visiting the studio of a great sculptor or seeing the ancient sites and collections for which Rome was famous." - Castellani and Italian Archaeological Jewelry, Chapter Six by Julie Rudoe, Susan Weber Soros and Stefanie Walker Editors (2004)
Era: Victorian, circa 1850
Size: 6.0cm by 7.1cm
Marks: Papal States Hallmarks for 18ct Gold
Condition: Great antique condition. Note that the lower drop has an old repair at the back where the little loop attaches (see images)
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This includes a valuation for insurance purposes, item specifics, date, and origins (where applicable).
Gemstones are tested by an accredited gemmologist (Cert GA, Gemmological Association of Great Britain).
Shipping
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US Shipments
Parcels going to the United States are currently subject to the Trump administration's 10% "reciprocal tariff". Until August 29th (2025), parcels under $800 remain tariff-free under the de minimis exemption.
We declare our parcels under HTS code 9706 (antique over 100 years old) which reduces import duties to zero. This means the 10% "reciprocal tariff" is all you should be charged by customs*. At this time, you are responsible for any taxes levied at the border.
US customs will require a SS# or business tax ID to clear parcels valued over $2500. UPS will request this information from you directly. More information about this can be found on the US Customs and Border Protection website.
* The tariff situation is being handled extremely erratically by the Trump administration, as such it's susceptible to change as short notice. We will keep the information on this page updated as best we can.
[last updated: August 23rd, 2025]
Resizing
Ring sizing is available on most rings
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Layaway
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Condition
We offer detailed and accurate condition reports on each listing. These pieces are antique, vintage, or pre-loved and often over 100 years old so they're going to have lived a life. A healthy patina and the odd scuff or scrape is quite normal... it's part of their charm! Everything we present has been checked over by our jeweller and should be good for wear for many years to come (unless otherwise stated) but please remember to treat them with appropriate care and consideration for their age.
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