1854 Pink Garnet Flower Ring
A gorgeous antique cluster ring dating from the early Victorian period with something of a story to tell... The hallmarks inside the band indicate that it was made in 1854, the same year that three new gold standards were introduced by the assay offices of the United Kingdom: 9, 12, and 15 carat. Prior to 1854 there were only two standards, 18 and 22ct, so when this ring was made it was quite of a novelty. The head is modelled after a flower, adorned with gold granulation and set with natural pearl 'petals' arranged around a glorious pink 'rhodolite' garnet. Behind the head is a round locket compartment complete with the original glass, concealed from view but designed to be worn against the skin allowing an intimate physical connection with the keepsake housed within. The shoulders are openworked after the rococo fashion, with abstract, swirling foliate lines. But here's the story:
The maker's mark, alongside the hallmark on the inner band, tells us it was made by Joseph Adelman of Withy Grove, Manchester. A series of reports from April 1905 reference Joseph Adelman of Withy Grove, Manchester, partaking in some rather naughty [illegal] behaviour, namely tampering with hallmarks. He is accused of selling rings, "about three dozen a week", with transposed hallmarks:
"He was charged with transposing the hall-marks from certain articles of goldware to other similar articles of the same or inferior value, with having in his possession gold rings the hallmarks on which had been so transposed, and with uttering gold rings of the same character, in contravention of the Goldsmiths Act... The only witness on Tuesday was a working jeweller, formerly employed by the defendant, who spoke to seeing gold strips which had been stamped with the defendant's name mark being sent to the Assay Office at Chester and being returned bearing the official hallmarks. These strips represented the condition of 18-carat gold which had to be cut up and made into rings (each ring bearing its own hall-mark); but Adelman's practice, the witness said, was to cut out the hall-marks and solder them into gold rings which were generally of inferior standard." - from The Chester Courant - 26th April 1905
Scandalous, to be sure. It's not clear whether it's the same Joseph Adelman who put his name to this ring in 1854, now well into his 70s, or perhaps a son who had taken over the business. Either way, rest assured, we've tested this ring and it's 12 carat gold through and through. And if you're wondering what sort of punishment went along with tampering with hallmarks, a near identical case in 1897 resulted in: " fourteen months' hard labour... the Judge said the offence was a most serious one, and was purposely committed for the greed of gain."* Yikes.
*South Wales Echo - 17th March 1897
Era: Victorian, 1854
Ring size: N or 6.75 US. Resizeable for £55
Head size: 12.8mm by 11.7mm
Stones: 'Rhodolite' Garnet (variety almandine-pyrope) & Natural Pearls
Marks: English, Birmingham, 12ct Gold, 1854, J.A. Maker's Mark
Condition: Good antique condition, light wear consistent with age. Small chip to the girdle of the garnet
Full appraisal document provided with each item
This includes a valuation for insurance purposes, item specifics, date, and origins (where applicable)
Gemstones are tested by an accredited gemmologist (Cert GA, Gemmological Association of Great Britain)
Shipping
Express shipping is free of charge and carbon offset
Tracked and insured with signature on delivery
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Resizing
Ring sizing is available on most rings
£55 flat fee
Resizing takes 7-14 days
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Note: sizing may remove some of the patina (although we take every care to reduce this where possible)
Layaway
A 25% deposit will be taken to secure the item. The remaining balance will be settled in 90 days. You can pay installments weekly, monthly, or the full balance at the end - whatever works.
Condition
We offer detailed and accurate condition reports on each listing. These pieces are antique, vintage, or pre-loved, often over 100 years old so they're going to have lived a life. A healthy patina and the odd scuff/scrape are quite normal... it's part of their charm! Everything we present has been checked over by our jeweller and should be good for wear for many years to come (unless otherwise stated) but please remember to treat them with appropriate care and consideration for their age.
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alex@lostowl.jewelry
An inscription can be added inside the band, where space allows. Add 2-3 weeks to shipping times
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