PEARL
A collection of natural Quahog Pearls.
The Facts
Unlike the other treasured gemstones we have previously looked at in this series, the pearl is unique in the respect that it is not a stone formed beneath the earth’s surface, but rather a gem created by a living organism, referred to as a biogenic gem. Pearls are made by mollusks such as marine oysters and freshwater mussels as a natural defence against an irritant entering their shell. The mollusk then coats the irritant in a substance called nacre, or mother of pearl, with is made up of a combination of aragonite - a mineralised calcium carbonate - and conchiolin - an organic protein - which are built up in alternating layers like a biological counterpart to bricks and mortar. It is this build up of nacre which creates the pearl and gives it its’ signature opalescent sheen. The overlapping layers break up the light falling on the pearl’s surface, with light being reflected and refracted at different depths, producing a glowing lustre and a variety of iridescent colours. These effects can be augmented or detracted from by natural variations within the formation of the pearl. For example, thicker layers of nacre will generally produce a more intense lustre, while thinner layers will result in a more milky appearance.
Pearl-producing mollusks span a variety of species, resulting in a wide spectrum of colours, rarity, and value. To name a few:
- The black-lip pearl oyster, native to the South Pacific, produces the rare Tahitian pearl.
- The golden-lip pearl oyster produces gems with hues ranging from champagne to bronze and are generally found in Indonesia, Australia, and the Philippines.
- Very rare pink or orange pearls may be found in conch or melo shells, both types of gastropods.
A Tahitian Pearl in the shell of a Black-Lip Pearl Oyster.
The formation of pearls may be a phenomenon of nature, but they are no longer a natural creation alone. Those gems forming without human intervention as a response to an irritant, such as a parasite, are known as natural pearls. However, these are extremely rare; in the wild, less than one in a thousand oyster shells may produce a pearl during their lifetime. In an attempt to overcome this rarity, pearls can now also be commercially created by an irritant being manually inserted into the mollusk to promote the nacre secretion process. Essentially, a little bead made of shell material will be transplanted into the mollusk and it will then be returned to the ocean or lake to grow a pearl that can be harvested in as few as twelve to eighteen months. These gems that have received a little helping hand are known as cultured pearls. As this farming process is so effective, there is abundance of cultured pearls in comparison to their natural counterparts, so their value comes from their symmetry and shine as opposed to their rarity.
Cultured pearls were being produced in China as early as the 13th century, where freshwater mussels would have a small Buddha figure inserted into them to incite the production of nacre, but it is Kokichi Mikimoto who is credited as the pioneer of the modern cultured pearl. Mikimoto grew up in Japan and, recognising the huge European demand for the gems which had resulted in extreme over-fishing in local waters, set out to find a way to create the perfect pearl. Settling on the Akoya oyster, due to the round and lustrous pearls they produced, Mikimoto spent years experimenting with different types of tissue and bead implants, facing plenty of failures and public scepticism along the way. But in 1893, he succeeded in creating a semi-spherical cultured pearl, and he earned a patent three years later. By 1905, he had managed to make the pearls round. Mikimoto pearls, as they are still known, were a revelation as a product that was previously solely a miracle of nature could now be commercially controlled, helping to achieve Mikimoto’s dream “to adorn the necks of all women around the world with pearls.”
Kokichi Mikimoto inserting a nucleus into a pearl shell.
The Legend
First documented by Chinese historians in 2206 BC, pearls have captivated humanity for thousands of years with their natural perfection and beauty. They have even been compared to diamonds, with mineralogist George Kunz writing:
“The diamond is to the pearl as the sun is to the moon, and we might well call one the "king-gem" and the other the "queen-gem." The diamond, like a knight of old — brilliant and resistant, is the emblem of fearlessness and invincibility; the pearl, like a lady of old — pure and fair to look upon, is the emblem of modesty and purity.”
Pearls have long been associated with purity and innocence, as well as love and romance, making them a popular choice for wedding jewelry. In ancient Greece, pearls were believed to be the tears of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, beauty, and fertility, so brides often wore pearls to ensure a happy and fruitful marriage. Queen Victoria was a flagbearer of the pearl and her reputation as the Virgin Queen, a chaste and virtuous ruler, embodied characteristics perfectly represented by the pearl. The association between the pearl and purity was further reinforced during the Renaissance, when the gem became a prominent feature in depictions of the Virgin Mary and Child, used as an emblem of the virgin birth.
Jewelled Bracelet from the Byzantine Empire, dating from 500-700 AD.
This association with purity and virginity is further reinforced within the Hindu faith, where the Hindu god Krishna is described as presenting the first pearl from the ocean to his daughter on her wedding day. However, the pearl is not solely associated with purity within religious contexts but is also found within the foundational texts of Christianity and Islam as a symbol of majesty and virtue. In the Quran, pearls are described to be hanging from the trees in paradise where righteous believers are adorned with bracelets of gold and pearls. Similarly, the book of Revelation in the Bible characterises the gates to the kingdom of heaven as “twelve pearls, each gate made of a single pearl”.
The inclusion of pearls in religious depictions of paradise gifts the gem a particularly high regard which has been appreciated for generations. The Chinese, for example, use pearls as a symbol of wealth and status, with Chinese royalty often being buried with intricate pearl jewelry during the Han Dynasty of 206 BC to 220 AD. Pearls were also considered the ultimate status symbol in Ancient Rome, described by Pliny the Elder as “first place among all things of value”. In fact, wealthy Romans were so captivated by pearls that laws were passed to restrict the gems to the ruling classes, cementing them as emblems of prestige and wealth. The historic game of one-upmanship between Mark Anthony and Cleopatra further illustrates the pearl’s association with incomparable value. After agreeing to a bet over who could host the most expensive meal, Cleopatra declared she would spend ten million sesterces on a single dinner. When the final course of the evening arrived, she removed one of her pearl earrings, which were described as two of the largest ever seen, dissolved it in a goblet of wine vinegar and drank it, thereby winning the bet.
'Cleopatra dissolving the Pearl in Wine' - Andrea Casali.
The beauty and value of the pearl was also appreciated by Empress Eugenie of France. At the time, pearls were associated with mourning and were thought to be unlucky, particularly bringing bad luck to marriages. However, the Empress so loved the gem that she chose to wear an ornate diadem, featuring 212 pearls, as well as strings of pearls for her wedding to Napoleon III in 1853. Empress Eugenie, like Marie Antoinette before her, reigned over fashion as well as France. She was a hugely influential fashion icon of the time, often credited for her contributions to French haute couture and luxury fashion, and soon after her wedding pearls became THE thing, with everyone wanting to be covered in them.
The pearl is also a gem that has represented women throughout history. Growing serendipitously in the belly of living organisms and (sometimes) without the need for any human intervention to improve what nature has perfected, these gems have become inextricably linked with feminine energy. From the high-necked dog collars of the Edwardian era to the loose, winging single-strand necklaces of the Roaring Twenties, the way pearls are worn has also represented a living commentary on the social and cultural changes of femininity and feminism throughout the years. The simple aesthetic of the gem provides a blank canvas for each generation to redefine, all while remaining a timeless classic with immense value. And of course, it’s the June birthstone, thought to bring love and luck to individuals born in this month. So, whether you’re looking for a token of love, a symbol of feminine energy, or the perfect gift for a summer baby, these glorious little wonders of nature have got you covered.
Portrait of Empress Eugenie wearing the pearl tiara by Franz Xaver Winterhalter.
Victorian Pearl Half-Hoop Ring, Available Now.